Taking the route north of the Great Lakes offers views of the Canadian plains and farms of Ontario, and, of course, a U.S. toll coming over the bridge that cuts the city of Sault (“soo”) Sainte Marie into two different countries. Toll: $3.50 US. Bandits.
The Great Lakes shipping route follows 2,342 miles from the westernmost tip of Lake Superior out the Saint Lawrence River north to the Bay of Fundy and the Atlantic Ocean. Or down the Mississippi River from Lake Michigan. But, I am here on the southern edge of Lake superior, the largest of the Great Lakes with 31,700 square miles of area, 2,726 miles of shoreline and 1332 feet deep at its deepest point.
The St. Mary’s Rapids barred shipping into Lake Superior due to a 21-foot rise from the lower lakes. Once larger settlements were developed, the need increased for larger shipments to them. The locks were created in 1853 to raise and lower vessels between the heights.
No freighters come through while I watch over the locks from the viewing platform in the adjoining park. But I can imagine the process of more than 11,000 cargo vessels that pass through every year—carrying iron ore, coal, grain or stone.
"surfmen" were on duty for rescues during colllisions and bad weather. They would "zipline" a rope, carrying a basket, out to the boat blown towards shore. Then they would reel in the basket holding a survivor. |
Spoiled by the plethora of backroads through the Northeastern National Forests, like the White Mountains of New Hampshire, I drive the flat forest roads in the two sections of the Hiawatha National Forest. Usually there are pull offs with fire rings…primitive camping options for free, thanks to our recreational tax dollars. But, here on the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, the recreational opportunities have been limited to ORV’s (off road vehicles, ATV’s and snowmobiles in winter). As soon as I find a small pull off along a two lane dirt path and settle in for the night, I hear the increasing murmur of motors. Then a group of accelerating ORV’s shoot pass me. And once my stealth campsite is compromised, vulnerability sets in, and I move to another spot. Then, like a swarm of bees, I hear another group coming down the lane. Giving up, I pay for a forest campground site. Bandits.
Forests of mixed hardwoods and softwoods line the scenic roads along the northern route of the Upper Peninsula. Ferns and ponds break up the vertical trunks radiating inland from Lake Superior’s sandy edge. Weather beaten dunes flow around the closest trunks and choke off the inland vegetation. Stable flies, like vampires, attach themselves to the ankles of dayhikers hoping to see what the National Lakeshore has to offer. Nature is clever that way, shooing us away from being able to do much physical damage. Even though the temperatures are hot, I pull on the thinnest long pants I’m traveling with, and throw a long sleeve shirt into my daypack...just in case. Those hikers wearing designer flip flops, carrying purses, and wearing shorts jog back to the parking lots, swatting flies away from their faces, legs and arms. According to the Park signage, insect repellant only annoys the flies more; it won’t keep them away. Yet, most have doused themselves with sprays. I research backcountry camping as a low budget option over the noisy forest roads. The National Lakeshore doesn’t require an entrance fee, but charges $5/ night for a backcountry campsite permit. Even with the flies and mosquitoes, the flat hiking would be worth the fee. BUT…..wait….I would have to reserve a site online with recreation.gov which charges a $15 reservation fee before the $5/ night. One night? $20. That’s what I paid for the forest campground site that I drove into. Bandits. And so, back to freecampsites.net for other options for overnight sleeping. The casino in the town of Christmas lets RV’s and others spend a night or two for free in their parking lot. And I head there for my last night once I do some blog posting work at the Munising Public Library—which charges $1 for non-resident use. Bandits, once again. With a better understanding of how Lake Superior can shift with weather conditions, meaning that the wind has been blowing steadily for the last couple of days and whitecaps have been rolling onto the beaches, I let go of seeing the Pictured Rocks by my own means of vessel. I don’t have the sea-faring savvy of skimming the surface of surly waters in a sea kayak miles from the harbor. I reserve a ticket for the sunset cruise with Pictured Rocks Cruises out of Munising harbor. First come seating happens, so I stand in the line already formed at the docks, and secure an upper deck location for higher viewing of the colored rocks and formations along the 42 miles of shoreline only seen from the water. |
Sandstone base with minerals seeping through the pores: tan
Iron: red and orange
Copper: blue and green
Manganese: brown and black
Limonite: white